I've been building custom polo frames for a number of years. My Polo frame has evolved as the sport has evolved with a frame geometry designed to have great handling at low and high speed. Minimizing the instances of jackknifing as well as being stable at higher speed. The standard Old Field polo frame has the ability to run 26"(up to 1.95"), 650b(aka 27.5), and 700(up to 28mm) wheels and can be custom built for any wheel/tire size. It is built with American made True Temper OX Platinum tubing.
With the move toward front biased braking, the need for a more robust fork and stiff front end has become more and more critical. Utilizing a segmented fork crown design, i am able to select tubing with wall thicknesses necessary for polo. Polo puts more strain on a front disc brake than any other realm of cycling, therefore, i use Paragon Breezer front dropouts which are unparalleled in strength and stiffness along with a disc brake tab of my own design that spreads the braking load along the length of the fork blade instead of the typical design that concentrates the force near the brake caliper.
All Old Field disc polo forks come with a rotor guard made of 7071 aluminum plate which precision cut by waterjet and attaches to the ISO brake mount and a purpose made braze-on on the front of the fork creating an integrated design that is super strong and simple to remove or replace.
Q; i notice that you do not have gussets on the frame, is your frame less durable?
A; gussets are a point of contention in the frame building world, some think that they make the frame stronger while many others have seen frames break around the gussets because the HAZ(heat affected zone) is much larger and is moved closer to the thin section of butted tubing. i use oversized True Temper OX Platinum (or Columbus Life) tubing. in my opinion increasing the tubing size and wall thickness do much more to create a strong frame than gussets.
Q; your frame geometry is not as tight as other polo frames
A; many polo bikes have essentially track bike geometries. that would be fine if polo was played on a banked track with no quick turning, but i have come to the geometry by trial and error. there are a lot of factors that come into play in bicycle handling, front center, wheel size and weight distribution play a huge role as well as basic frame geometry. When i build a custom frame for a customer, i take all of these factors into account along with trying to get as much information on riding style and the riders current setup and change the frame geometry accordingly.
Q; i have seen a number of broken segmented crown polo forks, does this mean they are not as strong as unicrown forks?
A; a strong fork can be made in either design, all of the segmented forks i have seen have broken at the crown race. part of the issue is that everyone is moving toward front brake only bikes and this puts a lot of strain on the fork, especially right at the lower headset cup. the forks i have seen break were not built with a butted steerer tube which is critical for a strong fork. all Old Field forks are build with True Temper butted cromoly steerer tubes.
Q; can i run cantilever brakes?
A; cantilever brake mounts are optional on custom polo frames. the standard polo frame comes with front disc brake only, this allows the rider more leeway for multiple wheelsizes. cantilever brake mounts can put added to the frame or fork as well as rear disc brake mounts.
Q; how long do i have to wait for a frame or fork?
A; Old Field Cycles is a one person shop, turnaround is typically 3-5 weeks for a fork and 5 to 8 weeks for a frame from when a deposit is received. a good portion of the time is waiting for materials or for the powder coat shop to coat the frame.